• Synthetic fibers like polyester now account for nearly 75% of global fiber production, sharply reducing cotton’s market share to about 20%.
• African countries reliant on raw cotton exports face strong competition from cheaper synthetic fibers and should develop local spinning and garment industries to add value.
• UNCTAD recommends targeted investments, infrastructure upgrades, and skill development to support domestic cotton processing and textile manufacturing in Africa.

The global fiber market has surged over the last 30 years, but synthetic fibers have overtaken cotton. Polyester and other man-made fibers now make up almost three-quarters of global fiber production, forcing cotton’s share down to about one-fifth. This shift threatens African countries still exporting mostly raw cotton, widely known as "white gold."

The UN Conference on Trade and Development (UNCTAD) advises African nations to move beyond raw exports and develop domestic cotton processing industries. This strategy would help them adapt to the evolving global fiber market. Synthetic fibers dominate the trade of yarns and fabrics, controlling 65 to 70% of market value, driven by their lower cost compared to cotton.

Africa, with a cotton production advantage, must rely on spinning and garment manufacturing to create jobs and increase earnings from their cotton exports. UNCTAD emphasizes that effective industrial policies are vital for the textile sector’s growth.

To support this transition, countries should provide targeted incentives for private investments, improve infrastructure—especially energy access and logistics—and promote training programs to build expertise in fiber processing and textile production.

In Africa, the textile and garment industry is beginning to grow in countries like Ethiopia and Benin. These countries use locally grown cotton, supported by foreign direct investment and government incentives.

Currently, Africa produces less than 5% of the world’s cotton but accounts for about 15% of raw cotton exports. Building value-added cotton industries can help African nations capture more economic benefits and face the challenge posed by synthetic fibers more effectively.

This article was initially published in French by Espoir Olodo

Edited in English by Ange Jason Quenum